Sunday, December 13, 2015

Patek Philippe Nautilus Two-Tone 5980/1AR-001 Review

Presented at Baselworld 2013, replica Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1AR-001 marked the real comeback of two-tone timepieces within the 'Holy Trinity of Watchmaking'. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1AR-001 we are reviewing here, is fitted with a 40.5 mm case in stainless steel and 18K rose gold, with a gorgeous blue dial inspired by the color of the dial on the first Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 but with a much richer and darker hue.

Its blue gradient dial is a true chameleon depending on lighting conditions and its rose gold applied markers with luminescent material along with the white accents of the monocounter chrono-register provide just the right amount of contrast. As we like to say it, no less, no more. Below you will see the multiple color variations you experience depending on the light source and the angle at which it refracts.

The monocounter chronograph register located at 6 o'clock, is literally like having another watch inside the watch. Reading elapsed times couldn't be easier as hours and minutes are accounted for in one 12-hour register. The 18K rose gold framed date aperture at 3 o'clock rounds out the design of the dial.

Fitted with a very distinctive design and case construction, the shape of the bezel is neither round nor rectangular, similar to the Royal Oak bezel, the bezel on the Nautilus is an octagon with gently rounded corners and  with hinges to the left and right that some like to call 'ears'. However, the original Nautilus ref. 3700 featured straight hinges instead of gently rounded as they are now, to formally reflect the lateral curvature of the bezel, enhancing the elegance of the new Nautilus case. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 120 meters.

Powered by the automatic Patek Philippe chronograph calibre CH 28-520 C with 12-hour monocounter chronograph. The calibre is composed of 327 exceptionally finished parts, 35 jewels and 13 bridges. The calibre provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph and is fully visible via the display case back. Along the case back, one will encounter the marking 'stainless steel' for the material of the case and the hinges marked 'Au750' for their 18K rose gold composition.

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